Until Next Time

We said goodbye to two of the pigs last evening for they flew out early this morning for Delhi and their homeward flights. The now four pigs started our day in Fort Cochin by heading to the Kathakali Culture Center to participate in a one hour meditation to music.

In a dark room lit by candles, sitting on cushions, we sat crossed legged, spines and heads straight with eyes closed. We formed a semicircle around two accomplished musicians on the sitar and drums. They played a beautiful raga meant to illicit meditation and happiness.

I love to meditate in the mornings and I try to do so each morning for 30 minutes. It centers me and gives me focus for the day. It is very rare that I can take an hour to devote to my morning meditation. Today I had time to go beyond concentrating on NOT concentrating. The music with a 16 bar beat on the sitar was enough of a constant rhythm that it was easy to fall into mindless thoughts. I think the Beatles used this same beat in their recording of "Within You Without You". It's amazing how powerful music can be in setting one's mood. The hour had dissapeared in what seemed but an instant. I emerged onto the sunlit and bustling street happy, energized and carefree.

When pigs fly there comes a time when they must return to each of their homes, families, jobs and committments.They are not the same pigs they were when they took flight 21 days ago. They have seen new places, made new friends, and created memories to last a lifetime. They have enriched their lives, nutured their souls, and brought a little sunshine and light into those whose paths they have crossed. "When the energy is good...the roads cross". Everyday we acquired new knowledge of man and nature and we were content and happy; what more could anyone want?

There is no such thing as Goodbye to a flying pig; only an "Until Next Time".

M

Textiles, Texture, Tactile

Southern India is temples and churches, mansions and palaces, and masterpieces in sculpture arts and culture. It also has an inexhaustable variety of textiles,textures and tactile.

We shopped for Sari's in Chennai, spices in Periyar, cottons in Chettinad, Bamboo Linen in Kerala, gems at Gem Palace in Fort Cochin, bronze scultures in Tanjore; pashminas,cashmere and silks everywhere.

CLICK HERE to see a video of the piglets shopping for spices in Periyar

CLICK HERE to see a video of a classical dance guide in Chennai

We felt the warmth of the wax when watching the sculpter cast his image; the touch of cold marble on our bare feet in the Palace of Madurai; the velvety feel of the oil rolling down our skin as the two masseuses did our Ayurveda treatments; the coolness on my neck that only a rare gemstone can create.

Nowhere else could such variety exist and just like everything else in India....the possibilities are endless.

CLICK HERE to see a video of the Meenaskshi Temple

M

Daily Photo - Ginger Meets 5 Little Piggies

Daily Photo - Rex Has Moves

Daily Photos - Shopping in Kerala

Shopping can be a spiritual experience as well!  Especially with the beautiful textiles, jewelry and antiquities this diverse country has to offer.

Just Dance - Lady Gaga Has NOTHING on These Performers!

Southern India is rich in its rituals and traditions, sculptures and paintings, dance, music, theater, handicrafts and festivals. With millions of people who follow numerous religions, speak many languages and dialects and practice different customs - it is a wonder that they have commonly shared attitudes and beliefs that transcend all barriers. These commonly shared beliefs appear in the form of legend and myths which have endured for hundreds of years.


One of the art forms that visually and musically express these fairy tales is the Indian Classical Dance. We attended performances of two Southern India dance styles: Bharatnatyam and the Kathakali. We went to a special recital at the Kalakshetra School for Traditional Music and Dance while we were in Chennai. The director of the school performed 6 dances in the Bharatanayam style. We knew very little about the school and even less about the dance but we were very excited to be attending this special performance.The "air cooled" theater was filled for the two hour performance. The musicans, singers and dancers were all stunning. We knew we had seen something wonderful although as the trip progressed we came to realize just how truly exceptional the performance had been. Each pose, hand gesture, smile, tilt of the head, angle of the foot had a meaning. When I tried later to mimick some of the movements, I realized just how difficult they were to perform. Many of the movements were depicted in scultures and paintings we saw throughout the temples we visited because this dance form originated with the temple dancers.

CLICK HERE to see a video of the preparation for the Kathakali dance

Picture this as sung to the tune of the "Hokey Pokey": Put your left foot out, put your right leg up, put you left arm up and you shake it all about, you do the tripatake gesture and you put your right arm out; that's what its all about!


Although one of the smallest states in India, Kerala has perhaps the richest and most complex web of art forms. One of the best examples of these is the Kathakali Dance form. It is here in Fort Cochin that we see the local interpretation of the Mahabarata.

In reading about this dance form we learned about the meaning placed on the eye exaggerations, facial movements and hand gestures. With their elaborate costumes and mask-like makeup, it is like watching KISS perform classical dance. Once again every movement has meaning. The application of the make up is an art form itself. We were able to watch the make up applied before the performance.


CLICK HERE to see a video of the Kathakali Dance in Cochin

To savour the multi_layerwd subtleties of the Kathakali, or any of the classical dance forms of India, the audience is expected to be equally receptive and knowledgeable. The term often used for such an informed viewer is rasika who is "the lover of the beautiful," or anyone who has a healthy sense of humor and wit, anyone who enjoys the pleasures of life, anyone who can create an atmosphere of cheer and happiness around him. All the pigs are Rasikas but none more so than Julie whose eye movements and made up face outshone even the most seasoned of the performers.

CLICK HERE to see more Kathakali dancing



CLICK HERE for more facial expressions and elaborate makeup




M

Daily Photos - Celebrations

Happy, Happy Birthday to Yeardley

Rex on the Road to Fort Cochin

Wishing Julie luck before her Kathakali dance performance.

A Very Special Mass in Kerala

Today we visit the Back Waters of Kerala. I decided last night to attend the local Catholic Church for mass. It was barely light when Catherine and I headed out the gates of the Marari Beach Hotel. We fell into a procession of people walking down the road headed to church. There was no traffic on the road and the people we saw were walking quietly but with purpose. Men, women and children coming from both directions started turning off the road and moving into the steepled church.

We left our shoes at the door and made our way into the church. Most of the congregation is sitting on the floor but we notice two sets of pews in the back of the church. Men were seated on the left and women on the right. I had on my pristine white linen pants so I quickly made my way to sit in one of the pews. Catherine sat several rows behind me. We are a few minutes early so we have a chance to watch as the church begins to fill. It is 6:40 and mass is scheduled to begin at 6:45.

The church itself is like many churches at home; an alter in front with Jesus on the cross above it, the stations of the cross along the side walls, flowers all across the front and a picture of the Virgin Mary framed in red and yellow flashing lights. (Actually my church at home displays Mother Mary a little differently!) The priest walks in and everyone rises when mass begins.

The music is uniquely Indian, a mixture of the sitar and organ with a distinct beat and melody. Before me are hundreds of brightly covered heads and I notice the church is filled, many standing outside. PANIC: I notice that everyone sitting in the pews is 80+ years old.......but me! All the women are in beautiful saris and covering their heads with colorful scarves. I am in my white linen pants and nothing with which to cover my head. I know God does not care but what about the 80 year old woman sitting next to me? I slowly turn and look at her....she smiles. I smile and let out a sigh of relief.

After Mass

Another Catholic Church in Kerala

The alter boy looks 18 and I smile as I think of my boys who were alter boys until they were 18. They still haven't forgiven me for constantly volunteering them for 6am mass. The gifts presented at the offering - fire, incense and flowers - are much like the offerings we have seen the Hindus make at the temples. The babies crying and the young children looking over their mother's shoulders are no different from those sitting in my church in Atlanta, Georgia.

The only difference between us is that difference we create in our minds. With faith, an open mind and a gentle spirit we are all of one God. Peace be with you, Amen.

M

Daily Photos - Kisses from Kumurakum

Kisses from Kumurakum

Oberoi boat and chef in Kerala

When I Get That Feeling, I Need Ayurveda Healing!

I was introduced to the healing touch of AYURVEDA today. Ayurveda is a system of healing, indigenous to India-most specifically to Kerala.The term "Ayurveda" is the combination of two words,"Ayu" which means life and "Veda" meaning knowledge. Ayurveda is the knowledge which helps to protect the quality and longevity of life. I hit the jackpot!


Ayurveda is based on ancient Indian philosophy which says that the whole universe is made up of 5 elements: Air, Space, Fire, Water and Earth.These five elements undergo combinations to form three basic factors: vata, pitha and kapha. Vata combines air and space and controls all movements, nerve impulse, circulation etc. Pitha is from fire and controls metabolism and enzyme activity. Kapha combines earth and water and controls stability, flexibility and growth.

Meg, post treatment

Now I can't tell you much more about how this works since I just had my first Ayuerveda treatment today at Spice Village in Periyar. I had the Pizhichil treatment. This is a traditionally practiced to keep the body fit and healthy. It tones up the body, increases blood circulation and cleanses the body of toxins. You would not recognize me now that I am now bubbling with health and am free of all M and M's! 


In this treatment, warm herbal oil (enough to deep fry a turkey) is poured continuously in a rhythmic manner by TWO or more masseurs for 60 minutes. This was the most sensational treatment I have ever had. Not only did it feel divine but they tell me it is good for aiding arthritis, paralysis, sexual weakness, general debility, nervous disorders, circulatory complaints and diabetes. I refuse to reveal which of these ailments I have and which ones are now cured! I plan on looking into visiting an Ayurveda center someday and taking the 10 day course which is meant to bring you long life and good health. It is a wonderful ancient science that I am now thrilled to have experienced.


M

Daily Photo - Friends in India

Alters, Alters Everywhere - A Bouqet of Senses in India

To quote a New York Times article I recently read,"Even the dullest spirit at some point in South India will be affected by the numberless ways that ritual underscores the holiness of daily life." Here you see alters everywhere including fields, lakes, bases of trees, roadsides, restaurants, living rooms and the like.

I wish I could put into words the experience that is the Meenakshi Temple located in Madurai. It is one of the largest and most beautiful of temples in all of India. The primary deity of this Hindu temple is Meenaskshi, the consort to Shiva. This alone makes this temple unique.

Meenakshi temple is much like the country in which it resides. An abundance of everything: people, flowers, smells, textures, textiles, sounds and color. Every step, every look, every breath you take brings on something new. There are weddings, sacrifices, pilgrimages, pujas, music, bells, bangle ceremonies, shops, vendors, priests, candles, 100's of statues, thousands of pillars, and truckloads of flowers, coconuts and incense

In the chaos there is order; in the crush of people there is solitude. They say in India that logic takes a back seat to instinct. I believe this to be true. I am sorry I cannot find the words to express just what I was a part of here; I am sorry to have not had longer in this place; and I am grateful I was given the opportunity to come here. I hope you have that opportunity someday too.

M

Chettinad Cuisine--the Piggy Way

We are in the Chettinad region in the village of Karaikudi. Visalam is a 15 room palatial home that will be our home for tonight.The pigs have traveled to this region to see the architecture in the Kanadukathan heritage zone,visit some local craftsmen,and enjoy authentic Chettinad cuisine.

We arrive around lunch time. Johnny,the manager, invites us to join him for a traditional Chettinad meal. Authentic Chettinad cuisine comes, in all its goodness,a tribute to nature,the land and of course the Chettinad women who made use of every seed,every fruit and every vegetable that the land gives life to.

Our place mats and plates are large banana leaves. It is an interactive kitchen so the chef serves each person dollops of relishes, curries, vegetables, fish, mutton , rice and yogurt. We are instructed to begin BUT...where is my fork? My spoon? "You must eat with your hands" Johnny tells us with a smile.The pigs being good students of Indian etiquette know that you should always eat with your right hand only.This little piggy forgot and ate with both hands.

I am sitting next to Johnny for the meal.This could be a real problem. Remember I am the picky eater pig....can I come through for the team? I can and I did (although I had as much food in my lap as I did in my mouth)! I learned how to mix certain vegetables and relishes with the rice which allowed me to scoop the mixture with my fingers. What a fun and delicious meal!

Karaikudi is a village of beautifully built homes alive with never ending stories of a bygone era.It is a land frozen in time. Walking through several of the homes gave us a real feel for this unique architecture. We saw an unrenovated but lived in home as well as a renovated one. Both were beautifully decorated with wooden carved teakwood columns,old pictures and incredible tiled floors. The materials used came from Burma,Sri lanka, Mauuiritius, Cambodia and Venice.

We visited craftsmen still practicing the old ways of making tiles, cotton fabrics, and snack food. The modern world seemed far away. Here in Chettinad you find a world of vibrant tradition and culture along with the simple joys of life.

CLICK HERE to visit the Visalam tilemakers website.

M

Poojas in the Chettinad District

We begin each daily journey or excursion with a pooja (prayer).We all file into our van, warmly and affectionately greet our driver Pandyan, and set out to meet the world. As we drive along we pass out M & M's. Each color represents one of earths elements: yellow for sun, blue-water, red-fire, orange-sacrifice, green-prosperity, brown-earth. Each little pig, including piglet Rex, takes turns leading the prayer. Some days it is a quote from something we are reading; some days a simple"God bless this van and all within it". Our local guide Aroon even said a prayer in Tamil one day. Our prayers are always said with respect and sincerity.

Pandyan does not speak much English but he has a keen sense of observation. He has come to know each of us, not so much by our words, but by our actions and expressions of affection. He loves to hear us sing, and he loves to hear us laugh. He thinks we are "holy people" since we are always doing pujas and visiting temples!

I tell you all this to help explain why today, as we head to the Chettinad district, Pandyan asks our Toby Saab if he can make a short detour to show us something special. Pandyan is from this area and knows it very well. We leave the main road and head off on a small country road,enthusiastic about our surprise. We pass people working in the fields harvesting and reaping the rice.The sun is shining and the weather warm.

We come to a stop at the arched and brightly painted gateway that denotes there is a temple beyond.What is different about this temple is that there are hundreds of terra cotta horses lining the path to the large Tamarind tree which serves as the alter.We have not seen anything like this in India. What a special place!

The priest appears seemingly out of nowhere and three gentlemen approach the alter. They have come to this temple to have the priest bless their new truck. We are invited to participate in the blessing, which lasts about five minutes. I notice that the priest uses a coconut, incense and fire much like Toby Saab did at the blessing of Papa John's Cremation site. Once over, the priest collects his bicycle,the gentlemen collect their deed and keys,and we all proceed back down the terra cotta horse lined lane to our vehicles. Pandyan has given us a glorious gift today! We all are lighter of step and at peace with the world. I sing a song I learned as a child: "Oh The Lord's been good to me,and so I thank the Lord....For giving me,the things I need...the sun,and the rain and the appleseed. Oh  the Lord's been good to me."

M

Blessed by Porcine Friends and Pachyderms

Laughter is contagious. It spreads like a disease yet it cures all. Laughter and smiles are what have drawn the people here to the flying pigs. When you open your heart and let happiness flow, good things will come to you.

How can you not laugh and be happy when you start your day being blessed by an elephant?! The Sri. Brihadeswara temple is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has an elephant that meets and greets you at the first gate by laying his snout on your head. (I have heard snout juice is a good hair conditioner!) As we move into the temple grounds toward the main sanctum, people and families approach us to take our picture with them. They want to show their families and friends they have met someone "different". They have not met many Europeans or Americans who are openly friendly and happy to see them. They are so eager to share a part of themselves and we are open to receive.


CLICK HERE to see a video of our elephant blessings


Our guide, Aroon, leads us past hundreds of pilgrims to a side entrance of the temple which allows us direct access to the priest. From here we can also view the "Vimana" of the temple which is said to be among the tallest of its kind in the world! The Great Nandi(Stone Bull) is another temple highlight.

The Palace of Panjore stands near the temple and dates back to around 1550 AD. We are here mainly to see the art gallery which houses precious granite and bronze statues of the Chola period.These statues are some of India's great treasures. As beautifully as they are crafted, none can compete with one of our treasures, Julie.


We found Julie outside the palace in the courtyard, surrounded by young, laughing school children. Julie was smiling and laughing too. Had she told them a joke as she does for us everyday? Had she shared a picture or a song from her iPhone with them as she does for us everyday? What was her secret that had brought all these children and their teachers such joy and enthusiastic cheers? What had made Julie so happy she actually was glowing?...........ICE CREAM! Julie had treated this class of young Indian boys and girls to ice cream following their visit to the palace. It was a treat to witness and certainly a memory we all will cherish. Julie has brought me to laughter many times over the years, but today Julie brought me to tears. I am one grateful little pig to have such wonderful friends surrounding me.

M

Daily Photos and VIDEOS!

CLICK HERE for a video of a very special blessing ceremony

CLICK HERE for a video of gorgeous temples and worshipers 

5 Little Piggies and the Pilgrims of Shriranganathaswamy

Today the pigs flew into Trichy  to visit the beautiful temple of Shriranganathaswamy.(say that 10 times!) It is the time of year when women make pilgrimages and many come with their children to this temple. We were able to access a rooftop perch to look out over the 156 acres that make up the complex. Looking down into one of the courtyards we watched a group of Pilgrims dressed in their bright yellows and reds. Red is for prosperity and yellow for fertility. They look up at us in mass and smile and wave. I am overwhelmed at their gentle spirits and warm greeting. Yeardley Williams approached me and reminded me of something we read in Barbara Brown Taylor's book, "An Alter in the World." It was a simple statement but so fitting for this moment. "Surely God is in this place."

Click here for a bird's eye view of the pilgrims